On July 9, Fast Retailing — the company behind fashion brands such as Uniqlo, J Brand, Theory, and more — hosted a global media event to unveil its Jeans Innovation Center. The Jeans Innovation Center (JIC) leads the company’s initiative to create sustainable denim for all of its brands, with the exception of Princess Tam Tam. As part of the event, Fast Retailing provided media a look inside the JIC, showcasing the innovative technology utilized for production.

The Jeans Innovation Center, according to its chief operating officer Masaaki Matsubura, has been working with the development of trends and technology for Fast Retailing jeans since it was first established in November 2016. For the Fall/Winter 2019 season, the JIC has produced a portion of Uniqlo jeans using this new technology. There are also plans to produce all of Uniqlo's jeans at the JIC by 2020.

The JIC includes four stations that will reduce water waste, time, and manual labor: the Laser Engraving System, the Nano-Bubble, the Ozone Washing, and the Water Recycling System. As a result, the JIC — which will create over 18 million pairs of jeans for all Fast Retailing brands for the Fall/Winter 2019 season — reduces water by at least 90 percent compared to traditional methods.

The Laser Engraving System is designed to take the place of manual labor and the use of chemicals to create the appearance of authentic vintage-inspired denim and other patterns. It also ensures a uniform look throughout all of its jeans. It can also create 60 jeans per hour as opposed to the 10 per hour it would take to distress jeans manually.

As an alternative to traditional stone washing denim, the JIC uses Nano-Bubble, which also uses artificial ecostones made of polymer to reduce waste. This new process uses up to 99 percent less water than the standard wash system.

In order to clean its jeans of the residual indigo dye, the JIC uses Ozone Washing technology, which washes the denim without using water. As a result, jeans achieve a bleached, distressed way without the use of bleach.

With its Water Recycling System, the water used to produce Fast Retailing’s denim is then put through technology for purification, before being used once again to repeat the process. This system is the final step in JIC’s circular system for water use.

Another part of Fast Retailing’s initiative for more sustainable clothing is to use 100 percent sustainable cotton in all of its clothing by 2025, as well as to reduce its plastic use by 85 percent by 2020 — including using methods to minimize packaging waste.

While the new technology of Fast Retailing’s denim — specifically Uniqlo’s jeans — will be developed with JIC, the prices will remain the same.

Jeans made using the technology of Fast Retailing's Jeans Innovation Center will be available in Uniqlo stores mid-August.

Images: Courtesy of Fast Retailing

Second quarter sales at Skechers USA, Inc., the company said, grew 10.9 percent as a result of a 19.8 percent increase in the company’s international business and 1.5 percent in its domestic business. On a constant currency basis, sales increased 13.7 percent. Earnings from operations increased 29.7 million dollars or 36.5 percent to 111.1 million dollars.

“As the world continues to become closer and digital becomes a critical means of communicating and embracing trends to tell your brand’s story, it’s no longer what is happening in one market that matters; it’s what’s happening across all markets. We’re continuing to strategically view our business with a global lens as trends are traveling faster,” stated Robert Greenberg, Chief Executive Officer of Skechers in a statement.

Highlights of Skechers’ Q2 results

By segments, the company said, international wholesale business increased 18.2 percent, its company-owned global direct-to-consumer business increased 14.4 percent, while the domestic wholesale business decreased 3.8 percent.The company added that comparable same store sales in company-owned stores and e-commerce increased 4.9 percent, including 4.2 percent in the United States and 6.7 percent internationally.

Gross margins decreased as a result of promotional efforts to clear seasonal merchandise in select international markets, which was partially offset by higher domestic margins from improved retail pricing and product mix in direct-to-consumer and domestic wholesale businesses. Net earnings were 75.2 million dollars and diluted earnings per share were 49 cents.

“We experienced growth in every region, with the biggest dollar increases coming from India, the Middle East and China, as well as in Mexico with the conversion of the business to a joint venture. In our direct-to-consumer channels, we saw monthly sales increases in the quarter, an upward trend that’s continuing in July. Based on feedback from recent account meetings, we are seeing a similar trend within our domestic wholesale business in June and July and continue to believe we’ll have a stronger back half of the year,” added David Weinberg, Chief Operating Officer of Skechers.

Skechers’ H1 sales increase 6.3 percent

For the six-month period, Skechers added that sales grew 6.3 percent, or 9.3 percent on a constant currency basis. By segments, the company’s international wholesale business increased 12.9 percent, its company-owned direct-to-consumer business increased 11 percent, while its domestic wholesale business decreased 7.7 percent. The company’s international business grew 14.2 percent while its domestic business decreased by 2.5 percent.

Earnings from operations increased 46.7 million dollars or 20.3 percent, to 276.9 million dollars. Net earnings were 183.9 million dollars and diluted earnings per share were 1.19 dollars.

For the third quarter of 2019, the company believes it will achieve sales in the range of 1.325 billion dollars to 1.350 billion dollars, and diluted earnings per share of 65 cents to 70 cents, based on expected growth in each of the company’s three segments. The company expects its full-year effective tax rate to be between 17 and 20 percent.

Picture:Facebook/Skechers

EXEC POLL Bright lights and the big city, we’re constantly told by popular culture and media that New York City is what dreams are made of. Every year, young hopefuls pack up their bags and move to the bustling metropolis that never sleeps. It’s no different in the fashion industry as most of the top players have flagship stores or headquarters stationed at prime addresses in The Big Apple. As Frank Sinatra once sang, “if you can make it there (New York), you’ll make it anywhere,” but what does it really take and how can one stand out from such a competitive pool of talent? FashionUnited asked five female executives in fashion to share what they’ve learned from their careers in New York City.

Never give up, get involved and be a good listener

Carmen Castiñeira, Communications Manager at Derek Lam:

“New York is a window to the world – most of the companies have an office here. Editors, photographers, stylists are based here; there is a continuous movement in the industry. At first glance, it may appear too hard. Look again, always look again. You will never know what you’re capable of if you never try. Those words helped me a lot when I first moved to New York City. It was difficult at the very beginning, but no doubt worth your very best shot.

When you are starting out, be a true participant: listen, ask questions, familiarize yourself with every fashion magazine, PR agency, editor, brand, digital influencer, designer, model, stylist, and photographer. Take advantage of any opportunity. Show an eagerness to take on new responsibilities and projects, be proactive. Intern and gain as much experience as you can; I would not be where I am today if I didn’t have those opportunities.”

Fashion careers: Fashion PR and digital marketing with Carmen Castiñeira

Be passionate, extremely hard-working, respectful and a jack of all trades

Dora Fung, Interim Fashion Director at The Cut/NY Magazine, (previously the New York Editor for Vogue China):

“You have to be able to wear many different hats. Also, you must love fashion and really believe in the publication (company or brand) you work for. If you have all of those, then working all weekend and being away from home for weeks is never a chore. A good fashion director knows that the support of the team is key. The assistants work harder than anyone else. In addition, the market editor, the associate editors are all experts in their market. That's why working closely with the team and treating everyone with respect is one of the most important parts of the job.”

What it takes to become a Fashion Director with Dora Fung from The Cut/NY Magazine

Become a better leader through self-awareness and humility

Johanna Ante, HR Business Partner at Calzedonia

“I enjoy the diversity of food, people and especially the fashion of New York City! On my walk to work, I’m always looking to see how women are dressing. I get most of my ideas from observing what people wear and then incorporating that into my own style.

Self-awareness and humility. I always talk about these together because practicing self-awareness is how leaders develop humility. I was fresh out of college when I began working as an HR Manager, granted I finished school a bit later in life. I did exactly what I shouldn’t have. I came off like a know-it-all who was ready to change the company culture. Within three months I was sitting in my boss’ office receiving the most difficult feedback I’d ever received. He said there were many complaints against me and that my job was in jeopardy. That was the most humbling criticism ever. With my mentor, I set out on a difficult journey to win back the respect of my peers. I became aware of my body language, my tone and my choice of words when speaking with the team. I stopped trying to justify myself. I acknowledged my opportunity, took accountability for it, asked my employees for help and most importantly I changed my behavior.”

Failure can be the best thing that can happen to you

Claudia Cividino, CEO of Loro Piana for North America

“(Leadership) It’s a process of maturing your own wisdom. I’m not the same leader I was even two years ago. I fail every day honestly. I’m ok with that. I was fired from my job a decade ago and for a long time didn’t speak to anyone about that because I had so much shame. I had fundamentally failed with a capital F. I thought my life was over, my career was over. It was the best thing that ever happened to me personally, professionally, as a leader. I wouldn’t have the insights now unless I had gone through that. I’m a big proponent of failure.”

Fashion leadership; 5 experts reveal how to be the boss

Keep learning, try new things and make sure your job is enriching your self-development

Jackie Lewis, Sustainability Expert and Consultant at Alvanon:

“Gone is the age where you would train up and qualify from university, go straight into that role and do that for the rest of your life. Whether you are a university graduate or already in the industry-you have got to be constantly learning something.

Do your job because you want to learn. Be brave and try new things. The industry is moving so fast. You can very quickly become irrelevant. So it’s important to stay ahead of what’s new. If you are working for someone who isn’t enriching your learning and developing your skills, then it probably is not the business to be in.”

Fashion careers: Q&A with the Sustainability Expert of Alvanon, Jackie Lewis

Photos: courtesy of Carmen Castiñeira, courtesy of Dora Fung, courtesy of Johanna Ante, courtesy of Alvanon, blogs.newschool.edu

Kinnevik has announced that its net asset value (NAV) increased by 6 percent to 89 billion Swedish krona (9.5 billion dollars) or 323 Swedish krona (34.6 dollars) per share, in the second quarter, supported mainly by the positive development in the share prices of Zalando and Tele2. The value of the company’s unlisted assets increased to 16.5 billion Swedish krona (1.7 billion dollars) driven by increased value of Babylon and Livongo, and by the investment of additional capital in some of its newer companies such as Kolonial, Pleo and Monese, partially offset by the decline in value in Global Fashion Group.

”It was an eventful second quarter, during which we focused our efforts on continuing the shift in our portfolio towards growth companies. These efforts included supporting high-performers in our private portfolio, evaluating our Millicom stake and supporting the IPO of Global Fashion Group,” said Georgi Ganev, CEO of Kinnevik in a statement.

Key highlights of Kinnevik’s second quarter

The company added that it ended the quarter with a net debt position of 5.7 billion Swedish krona, corresponding to a leverage of 6 percent of portfolio value, well within the leverage target. Kinnevik further said that Tele2 has proposed an extraordinary dividend drawing from the proceeds from the transactions in Kazakhstan and the Netherlands, which is expected to strengthen the financial position by 1.1 billion Swedish krona by the end of August.

Global Fashion Group began trading on the Frankfurt Stock Exchange on July 2, 2019 and the company raised a total of 200 million euros, of which 60 million euros from Kinnevik, to fuel continued growth. Livongo also announced its intention to go public at a proposed price range corresponding to a fully diluted pre-money valuation of 2.1-2.4 billion dollars and Kinnevik has agreed to purchase additional shares at the IPO price from one of Livongo’s investors as well as newly issued shares in the IPO.

During the quarter, the company made total investments of 1,367 million Swedish krona including 632 million Swedish krona in GFG, 336 million Swedish krona in Kolonial, 156 million Swedish krona in Monese, 85 million Swedish krona in Pleo and 157 million Swedish krona in other existing assets.

US clothing and accessories brand Michael Kors has announced it will be launching its digital flagship on online Chinese marketplace, Tmall.

The new online store will be featured on Tmall Luxury Pavilion, Alibaba Group’s dedicated platform for luxury and premium brands launched in 2017. The store will be the first third-party partnership for Michael Kors in China and will see Tmall customers receiving exclusive access to special products launched only on Tmall as well as the entire range of Michael Kors women’s and men’s products.

Commenting on the launch in a statement, John D. Idol, chairman and chief executive officer of Capri Holdings Limited, the fashion holding company behind Michael Kors, said: “We are excited to launch our new Michael Kors digital flagship on Tmall and Tmall’s Luxury Pavilion. Consumers are becoming more digitally engaged with luxury shopping in China and Tmall Luxury Pavilion is the perfect venue for us to communicate Michael Kors’ brand vision.”

Michael Kors is looking to tap into Tmall’s strengths as the largest B2C platform in China. The brand currently operates 149 stores on the country's mainland.

Jiang Fan, president of Taobao and Tmall, added: “Michael Kors is an iconic, beloved brand and we are delighted to partner with them as they look to accelerate their momentum in the Chinese market. This collaboration will bring both exciting products and elevated shopping experiences to the more than 700 million Chinese consumers on our platforms.”

Photo credit: Michael Kors, Facebook

INTERVIEW A familiar face on social media, Lynn Quanjel, also known as @whoisthatblonde has worked with L’Oréal and launched a swimwear collection in 2018 with Dutch lingerie brand, Hunkemöller. Taking her fashion entrepreneurship even further by founding Social Nomads, a social media consultancy powered by influencers, Quanjel tells FashionUnited how to make a lasting impression through personal branding as well as what the next trends will be in influencer marketing.

“I’d like to see Social Nomads as a bridge which closes the gap. We consult companies on how to apply influencer marketing correctly and we teach influencers how to work on a more professional level so that both sides meet each other halfway. This way influencer marketing doesn’t only become more efficient, but also more pleasant for both parties.”

Tell us a bit about your background, how did you break into the fashion industry?

It all started with modeling to pay for my college tuition. This went so well that after completing my master’s degree, I decided to work as a full-time model while freelancing as a fashion editor for multiple magazines. As a model and editor, you meet so many people on a daily basis, so your network grows really fast. When you combine quality photography with engaging writing it’s a logical step to become an influencer.

As an influencer, what have been some highlights in your career and is there anything you’ve learned that you can share with us?

There are so many amazing highlights, I consider myself very lucky. One of my favorite experiences was designing my own swimwear collection for Hunkemöller, which we shot in the Seychelles. Another really fun collaboration was being the face of the L’Oréal Colorista Festival campaign. These brands really understand influencers and know how to work with them in order to get the best possible marketing results. The reason is that they understand influencers are creative individuals who have a very specific target group which they know how to serve better than anyone else. Many brands still make the mistake of thinking influencers as an advertisement space that they can completely curate.

The real key to successful influencer marketing is finding influencers who truly match with your brand and trusting the content creator to do their work. As a consultant I always recommend my clients to create a briefing which is broad on concept level, and specific on practical level: create an overall concept (usually connected to a campaign) which the influencer can fill-in with his or her own personal twist and get very specific on practical details such as deadlines, hashtags, UTM links and buyouts.

Tell us about your social media consultancy, Social Nomads. What made you decide to start your own business?

Social Nomads was founded when Chichi (my business partner) and I saw a business opportunity because we noticed that the marketing world was missing a deeper understanding of influencer marketing. Many companies use influencer marketing nowadays; however, most of them apply it wrong and then claim that it doesn’t work.

Before starting Social Nomads I was working for Sanoma – one of the biggest publishers in the Netherlands- to create their own influencer platform. While talking to their advertisers I noticed that most of them had no clue how to use influencers in their marketing strategies. On the other hand, I also had to work with a lot of influencers who had no idea what reports or benchmarks were and didn’t even know how much money they were worth. From both sides, there was a lack of knowledge and I realized that there wasn’t any company out there that focused on education in order to fill that knowledge gap.

What does a workday look like for you?

As a consultant I focus on education and product development. On a daily basis, I create social media strategies, workshops, inspiration sessions, seminars & influencer campaigns for clients. I also constantly write articles, e-books and social media content for Social Nomads. We are currently working on two additional projects: a video course for SME’s and a podcast.

Besides working from our office in Amsterdam, Chichi and I are also traveling regularly to create content and to work with our international clients. Last month, Chichi was in Hong Kong to research opportunities with Chinese social media companies and not that long ago I was in Los Angeles for a secret project.

What can you tell us about the next trends in influencer marketing?

Due to the increasing importance of voice-driven devices we expect podcasts to become more relevant. You can already see an impressive interest in the US and Scandinavia and it’s continuously growing worldwide. Companies could start their own podcasts to build their authority and increase brand awareness, but they can also use influential podcasts to advertise branded content.

Is it true that nano- and micro-influencers are on the rise?

Nano- and micro-influencer marketing will continue to grow: not only are they cheaper than mega-influencers, but they also have a highly engaged audience. They feel very ‘real’ and therefore trustworthy. More and more nano- and micro-influencer marketplaces will pop up to provide services for these type of campaigns.

However, the nano- and micro-influencer campaigns will still be combined with bigger influencers. The macro- or mega-influencers will be the face of the campaign – connecting their personal image to the brand and creating quality content. Then, the nano- and micro-influencers will boost this campaign by creating a ‘buzz around the brand.’ The perfect combination, if you ask me.

How do you stand out in a saturated market?

I think it’s essential that you choose a specific niche, that way it’s much easier to make an impression with potential clients – that’s why we decided to focus on consultancy rather than all-round influencer marketing. There are numerous marketing agencies that started to offer influencer marketing as a service because it was a hype without really understanding what it means and how to utilize it properly.

Chichi and I both have a following on Instagram and still work as influencers in our free time. Besides that we have created a pool of very capable influencers with each their own expertise in order to serve our clients the best way possible: we have experts in Youtube, Micro-influencers, ‘Realness on social media,’ photography, and so on. Every single person working for Social Nomads has already proven themselves in the field of social media, which guarantees qualitative results for our clients.

What is your must-have fashion item?

A colourful suit! It’s a full outfit so you never have to waste time thinking about how to style your look. It’s powerful, ready for any business-related meetings and still has a fun twist to make people remember you by while looking stylish and bold.

Any words or advice you’d like to share with us?

“It’s okay to be out of your comfort zone.” These words help me deal with stress when I feel like things are moving too fast. The truth is: if you’re not ahead of the curve, you won’t stand out as an entrepreneur so it’s okay to dream big and take ambitious steps to reach your goals. There are only two possibilities when you step out of your comfort zone: You succeed and you get one step closer to your goal. You hit a wall and you learn how to be better next time. If you look at it this way, there is no way you can lose!

Photos: courtesy of Social Nomads, courtesy of Lynn Quanjel

Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a first look at the essential menswear apparel themes and silhouettes for the Spring Summer 2020 season.

The Trendstop team give FashionUnited readers an exclusive look at three key theme directions that will be informing the menswear apparel, footwear and accessories markets into Spring Summer 2020 and beyond. Contemporary twists on classic menswear codes introduce fresh innovation and impetus to the men’s fashion sector. Refined silhouettes, minimalist detailing and considered graphics provide a sophisticated move on from traditional men’s styles. Our curated catwalk trend reports and dedicated galleries evaluate each trend’s commercial value and longevity, giving you the best possible basis for your decision making.

This week Trendstop present three influential SS20 menswear stories that reinvent core themes and heritage concepts. Summer World Heritage updates global tradition with a subtle performance aspect while Childhood Nostalgia with a Twist reworks personal histories and memories via contemporary, streetwise inflections. Fashion Outdoor redefines the rugged, utilitarian looks of past seasons with a renewed refinement and sophistication.

Summer World Heritage

The SS20 catwalks adopt a global view with collections taking inspiration from a variety of world cultures. Traditional printing techniques adorn high summer, loose fitting silhouettes that hark back to traditional dress. Ultra-lightweight materials, the use of sheer fabrications and subtle sports detailing applied to natural accessories, updates heritage influences for the new season.

Fashion Outdoor

Outdoor influences show a new refinement for SS20 as sports/utility garments come with clean, considered silhouettes rendered in premium fabrications. Sophisticated neutral tones and softened forms are accented with a pared back take on extreme sports accessories such as minimalist yet chunky footwear and polished safety belt fastenings.

Childhood Nostalgia with a Twist

Designers look back to childhood with an updated take on playful nostalgia. School uniform stripes and rugby jersey silhouettes are contemporized with new proportions and graphic colour combinations. Cartoonish motifs adorn tees and tanks, putting a grown-up spin on vintage toys and comic book illustrations via political slogans and pop culture messages.

Exclusive Offer

FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop’s Fall Winter 2019-20 Key Themes Directions report, featuring all the essential themes from the FW19-20 catwalk collections. Simply click here to receive your free report.

Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.

Peruvian clothing manufacturers are eyeing the European market. They specialise in the manufacture of knitwear made of alpaca wool and Pima cotton, both premium products from their country. To date, the manufacturers have produced mainly for the US market, but now they are attracting the attention of European labels like Missoni and Ted Baker.

During Berlin Fashion Week, 16 Peruvian fashion manufacturers presented their products and services at the Peru Moda Berlin in a small, exclusive setting at Berlin's Kulturbrauerei. Around 45 buyers from nine European countries attended the sourcing event on the Fourth of July, among them representatives from British companies like Ted Baker, Italian knitwear specialist Missoni and French childrenswear manufacturer CWF. The atmosphere at the event was relaxed with focused conversations between buyers and exhibitioners.

This past year, Peru's textile industry exported goods valued at 1.5 billion US dollars (1.3 billion euros), the majority of which, valued at 905 million US dollars, went to the United States. The share of exports to Europe amounted to 90 million US dollars – at 13.1 percent, they are growing faster than exports to the USA at 9.4 per cent. Peru's textile industry is one of the country's most important manufacturing industries employing nearly 300,000 people. Local manufacturers do not try to compete with major textile suppliers like Bangladesh or India, but are instead positioning themselves in the higher end clothing segment with high-quality native fibres like Pima cotton and also, to an increasing degree, in the area of sustainability.

Alpaca: precious wool in limited supply

Only three of the manufacturers of knitwear made from alpaca wool represented at Berlin are members of the World Fair Trade Organization, among them Allpa. The company was founded 33 years ago by a group of young Peruvians to support the country's handicrafts and market them internationally. Today, 80 shops, small to medium-sized businesses, work for the company – including some that process alpaca wool into blankets and knitwear. “In terms of quality, alpaca wool is on par with fine merino wool and cashmere," Nelly Canepa, director at Allpa, told FashionUnited in Berlin. The jumpers and cardigans at her stand have the qualities of Baby Alpaca and Superfine. Like Allpa, the company Raymisa also works with artisans in Peru and, in recent years, has invested in machines in order to be able to also offer fine knitwear in addition to hand-knit products, explained CEO Orlando Vasquez Kellhammer at the event.

For many years, alpacas in Peru, which have been raised for their wool for thousands of years, were subject to a ban on exports. Today, nearly 80 per cent of the total alpaca population lives in Peru and produces 25,000 kilograms of wool per year. Communities in the Andes raise the animals; their wool is then collected, selected and classified by middlemen. They sell the wool to yarn manufacturers in Peru, who supply manufacturers in the country. As a result, value creation takes place mainly within a single country, which is Nelly Caneparare in today's globalised clothing industry.

Pima: baby soft cotton

The value creation chain for cotton in Peru is similar. Manufacturers such as Quale Vest, Corp. All Cotton or Kusa Cotton represented at the sourcing event all work with Pima cotton that is grown in Peru. Michael Chabaneix, CEO of the GOTS certified business Corp All Cotton, which manufactures for US brands like Tory Burch and Rag & Bones, hopes to acquire more European customers in Berlin. “The Pima cotton fibres are the longest-stapled in the world, which means they are particularly soft and fine,” he explains. He also displays a t-shirt with a coarse structure made of tangüis. It is a type of cotton, which, though not as fine, is more affordable than Pima and requires less water.

Like raising alpacas, the cotton industry in Peru can also look back on the advanced culture of the Incas. "The Peruvians have been weaving for a very long time, since the beginning of civilisation," noted Elmer Schialer, the Peruvian ambassador in Berlin during the event. “One of the so-called centres of civilisation was found in the valley of Supe in southern Peru where the Peruvians were already gathering cotton 8000 years ago.”

Peru has set itself apart through its stories and quality. As a small producer of high-quality, but also higher priced raw materials like Pima cotton and alpaca wool, the country must position itself in the premium segment of the clothing industry. This specialisation and filling of a niche also helps keep income in the country, explained Schialer. “We are attempting to keep the bulk of value creation in Peru.”

FashionUnited attended the event at the invitation of the organisers.

Photo: Karina Mendoza / PROMPERÚ

IN PICTURES In a new, pioneering move, Gucci will celebrate its fall-winter fashion show with a special collection that commemorates the inspiration and thinking behind it. The new “Gucci Manifesto” collection makes use of the motif of the “mask”, as showcased at the fall/winter 2019 fashion show, and features text discussing the cultural significance of this item, reproduced from the show’s press release. In particular, the collection champions one key message throughout: “The mask as a cut between visible and invisible”.

There are three styles in the “Gucci Manifesto” collection: a short-sleeve, crew-neck cotton T-shirt, and a long-sleeve, oversize, cotton sweatshirt, either with crew-neck, or hooded. These are cut differently for men and for women, and have a variety of different printed fronts and backs.

These pieces have been sold primarily online at gucci.com, as a way of spreading the “Gucci Manifesto” worldwide. For women there is a red T-shirt featuring a metal-spike mask print on the front in black and white, with “Gucci” written underneath in black and the show’s main slogan on the back, also in black (“The mask as a cut between visible and invisible”); a crew-neck sweatshirt comes in the same color and design. For men there is a T-shirt featuring a carnival cat mask and “Gucci” on the front and the season’s slogan on the back. It comes in either black or white, and in both cases the printed details are in pale blue; a hooded sweatshirt in black or white is also available, with the same decoration in the same blue color.

There are also different “Gucci Manifesto” T-shirts and sweatshirts on sale in Gucci stores and Gucci wholesale accounts, for both men and women. They come in a variety of colors and all have mask prints on their fronts (the metal-spike mask, carnival cat mask or alien mask). “Gucci” features either on the front or back of each garment and some pieces also display a record of the date of the show: “Gucci Fall Winter 2019/20”. The writing on the back either states simply “Gucci”, the show’s key slogan (“The mask as a cut between visible and invisible”), or reproduces the entire show press release.

These retail and wholesale “Gucci Manifesto” items are wrapped in special packaging – a black box with a carnival cat mask motif and “Gucci” on the lid, in white, and the collection slogan on the reverse of the lid, also in white.

For the occasion, the Gucci App will also unveil a dedicated section, allowing users to discover the collection and to virtually try-on the masks through the augmented reality. The technology – available for iOS and Android – gives users the possibility to wear their favorite masks from the fall/winter 2019 fashion show and to take photos and videos of themselves, providing an engaging experience.

New Gucci ArtWalls are also dedicated to the collection and its spirit, celebrating the role of the mask worldwide. The “Gucci Manifesto” walls debuted in Lafayette Street in Manhattan’s SoHo neighbourhood, in Milan’s Largo la Foppa (in the district of Corso Garibaldi), just off East London’s famous Brick Lane, in Hong Kong’s D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, in Shanghai’s Fengsheng Li, Jingan district and in Mexico City’s Avenida de Michoacan, in the Condesa area.

photos: courtesy of Gucci

INTERVIEWWhen it comes to eyewear, most consumers — if they don’t already have an eye prescription — are only looking for sunglasses. However, as trends of eye fatigue and eyestrain continue to increase with the use of technology devices and computer screens — and consequentially blue light blocking glasses — eyewear is beginning to make its way into mainstream fashion. However, for anyone who hasn’t gone to an optometrist before, shopping for the appropriate lenses can be a daunting process.

Luckily, Zak. is changing all of that. With a location on Fairfax Avenue in Los Angeles, Zak. provides a comprehensive eye care and eyewear experience to its customers — regardless of whether they’ve traditionally needed a prescription or not.

Below, FashionUnited spoke with Zak.’s co-Founder, Kyly Zak Rabin to learn more about Zak., disrupting the idea of eye care and eyewear, and curating its own unique selection of eyewear — including its own styles.

Tell me about Zak. and why you decided to open it.

Zak. came about during a father/daughter catch-up dinner. My dad is an optometrist (in practice for over 35 years) and my background is in the start-up world. Over dinner, we started talking about frustrations within the optical industry and ultimately brainstormed what is now Zak. – a 21st century approach to your eyes.

We are streamlining and modernizing the typically clunky process to provide a seamless, one-stop shop for your eyes. Our ethos, design, culture, products and services are created to make taking care of your eyes easier for those with prescription needs while encouraging all people to consider their eyes.

Zak. currently offers the following:

Comprehensive Eye Care

Even if one has 20/20 vision, an exam is a necessary commitment to health that everyone should make. In addition to eye disease, Eye exams can uncover hidden health issues like high blood pressure, diabetes and neurological conditions that might not present symptoms. Our team of optometrists provides comprehensive eye health evaluations, digital retinal imaging, glaucoma and cataract screenings in addition to eyeglass and contact lens prescriptions. Not all eye exams are created equally – comprehensive care is key.

Onsite Lab

Our state of the art onsite lab allows customers to go behind the scenes to watch as their glasses come to life. We offer same-day service for in-store orders of many prescriptions and one can even personalize lenses with customized tints, mirrored lenses and Blue Anti-Reflective Coating that protects our eyes from harmful blue light emitting from our tech devices.

Contact Lenses

Sidestepping the traditionally complicated and inconvenient multi-step world of lens wear, customers can replenish contact lens prescriptions directly through our website with prices matched to 1800 contacts. You even have the option to auto-renew to avoid the panic of running out of lenses.

Zak. Collection

Zak. frames change the way you shop for glasses. 6 shapes, two weights, 3 colors. The Really Round, The Round, The Square, The Rectangle, The Cat, and The Pilot are timeless high quality, affordable unisex frames that start at $125 including your prescription and are designed from over three decades of industry data and experience.

Curated Frames

We offer a thoughtful edit of exquisitely-crafted designer frames from select industry mainstays and emerging labels, which assists our customers in understanding the available range of eyewear functions and value of differentiated product under one roof.

And as seamless as it can get: theoretically, a Zak. patient can get her eyes examined at 11am, get fit with contact lenses, and leave with glasses made by 12pm (all while sipping on our freshly made carrot juice).

Why do you feel it's important to bridge this gap and create a comprehensive destination?

We all have eyes — yet they typically do not get much attention. And those obligated to acknowledge them because of prescription needs are met with an antiquated optometric model that doesn’t effectively marry medical, retail, and the modern consumer.

When it comes to our health, we typically value an annual physical and dental check. The eye exam is considered insignificant unless vision is compromised. People get their eyes examined if they can’t see, but there are so many other reasons to invest in eye health from headaches and eyestrain to glare and light sensitivity. Not to mention the hours we’re spending in front of our tech devices, which can cause eye fatigue and irregular sleep patterns.

A commitment to your well-being should include your eyes. We’ve re-examined eye care to inspire awareness and offer the products and services to do it better.

You carry your own eyewear designs as well as other brands — what was the reasoning behind this?

Optical stores typically carry affordable or luxury products, catering to only one type of shopping experience. Zak. offers both to educate and accommodate the varying needs and tastes of today’s consumers. We carry a curated selection of extremely unique lines alongside our Zak. frames so that we are holistically a one-stop shop.

How do you feel like your store is opening up the world of eyewear to your audience?

Our concept, aesthetic and brand values create a physical and digital destination that makes people want to take care of their eyes while providing an uncomplicated shopping experience. Zak. frames make it simple – 6 shapes, 2 weights, 3 colors while our services elevate the entire experience, making the process more seamless and palatable for everyone.

Can you tell us why you decided to open up on Fairfax, among streetwear labels and restaurants?

Zak. is located on Fairfax Avenue in West Hollywood, a nice mid-point between the sprawling “coasts” of LA. The location was a significant catalyst in starting the business as quickly as we did as it’s positioned on an iconic stretch of Fairfax, which is an advantageous mix of community, retail, restaurants + streetwear enthusiasts. Legendary Canter’s Deli (founded in 1931) is directly across the street, Supreme is up the block, Jon + Vinny’s (arguably LA’s most popular restaurant) is our neighbor, and Golf (Tyler the Creator’s clothing company) is just a few stores down. Surrounding the block are residential homes. Thanks to this good company, there is a volume of foot traffic that is extremely uncommon in Los Angeles.

Fairfax is the perfect collision of every age, belief, and story in LA. We’re very proud to be here.

Do you have any plans to expand, or open up more locations in Los Angeles or anywhere else?

We’re using our first location and its varying service and product offerings as a means to collect data that will illuminate the best combination of online and brick/mortar expansion. We’d love to have select Zak. locations around the country and connect with, educate, provide products and services digitally to encourage people to consider their eyes and provide the best way to do so.

Images: Courtesy of Zak.

Italian brand Ducati has launched a new range of riding apparels and accessories in India. The apparels directly imported from Ducati Italy have the same range and quality as the sell worldwide. The brand has also tied up with Flipkart to distribute licensed lifestyle apparels. The collaboration is in sync with the Italian brand’s long-term strategy of building next generation riders through lifestyle apparel. As per Sergi Canovas, Managing Director of Ducati India apparel and accessory business is a significant part of their strategy in India, especially riding gear as safety is one of the biggest priorities for Ducati. Both the Ducati and Scrambler brands come with a wide range of apparel and accessories for men and women. Even kids can step into branded gear. Along with its bikes, all nine stores in India sell the full range of Ducati and Scrambler apparel and accessories.

The wide range comprise: T-shirts, shirts, jeans, caps, casual shoes, sunglasses and riding gear like fluorescent green, high-visibility jackets and bulky, waterproof pants, full leather racing suits, gloves, boots, helmets, etc.

Ducati has also launched a website where one can design a handmade leather motorcycle suit and look completely different from everyone else on the track. Ducati SuMisura (Italian for custom made) is a project launched to allow consumers to customise their gear, suit or helmet.

The 12th edition of the India Couture Week,organised by Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) in partnership with Hindustan Times opens today at hotel Taj Palace in New Delhi. Its scheduled to take place from July 22 to 28. The mega event will feature an exciting line-up of India’s most sought-after designers. The high-glam extravaganza opens with beautifully curated off-site shows by couturiers Amit Aggarwal and Suneet Varma.

What follows the opening rendezvous are runway spectacles by an array of designers such as Falguni and Shane Peacock, Pankaj & Nidhi, Rahul Mishra, Reynu Taandon, Shyamal & Bhumika, Sulakshana Monga, Gaurav Gupta and Tarun Tahiliani, who will showcase their works through the week. The event will trigger a wave of fashion that reflects what the year has in store for the modern brides.

Marks and Spencer plc (M&S) has roped in Harriet Hounsell as new HR Director, who will be joining the firm in mid-October as part of the company’s leadership transformation plan.

Confirming Hounsell’s appointment to FashionUnited, a company spokesperson said: “We look forward to welcoming her in October.”

The company said, she is currently serving at McDonalds UK & Ireland, leading role in driving culture change to help the business become more innovative, agile in its decision making and colleague-centric.

Hounsell brings extensive retail experience to M&S and has spent a large part of her career at the John Lewis Partnership, holding a number of operational and trading roles in John Lewis and Waitrose stores.

Picture:M&S media gallery

REPORT London - “Fashion is on such a messily over-consumptive model that we have sort of lost the joy of it, and we have to collectively find a way to bring the joy back,” said British fashion designer and owner of Savile Row tailor Norton & Sons, Patrick Grant, during his keynote talk at Pure London on Sunday. In front of a crowd of industry professionals, Grant discussed fast fashion, sustainable transparency in the supply chain, and the importance of supporting British manufacturing.

Investing in local production

In 2016, Grant launched his not-for-profit fashion brand Community Clothing with the aim of reigniting British clothing and textile manufacturing. “They are underutilised, they are under-invested in,” he said, referring to British garment factories. “The skills are declining, the investment is declining, the technology is therefore getting old; they’re not full so their utilisation drops, prices get higher, and volumes get smaller. It’s a declining spiral.”

This has resulted in stores no longer offering good quality basic items like they once did, Grant said. “You can’t go the high street and at an affordable price buy good quality basic stuff because the cheap end of fashion has dragged the middle end of fashion down in price.” Brands that could once hire experts in wool sourcing, cotton sourcing, spinning, weaving and dying are now chasing cheaper and cheaper factories abroad.

Amid increasing Brexit uncertainty, Grant believes that is more important now than ever to invest in British manufacturing. “We have a big problem in this country with a growing wealth gap. Simple manufacturing isn't something of the past. Why do we have to do it somewhere else, we have the capacity to make it here and invest in the technology to bring it up to speed, instead of shipping things 7,000 miles across the planet. But it has to be done in a slightly different way; we have to take some of the profit out,” he said.

Slowing down fast fashion

Last month, the UK government rejected all recommendations made by the Environmental Audit Committee in a report looking to “end the era of throwaway fashion.” The report offered multiple recommendations from environmental and labour market practices, to introducing a 1p charge on each item of clothing to pay for better clothing collection and recycling practices. The government rejected all of the recommendations.

“I don't think the audit committee went nearly far enough,” Grant said, suggesting that there should be a slew of stricter regulations to clean up the industry, including minimum pricing on clothing and clearer labelling. “I think that everything we buy that’s made of plastic should be labelled plastic. Because consumers don't know what polyester or acrylic or nylon are. Virgin plastics should be labelled.” He used the example of cigarette packaging to paint the picture. “You have a picture of a diseased lung on the back of a cigarette packet. This stuff is as toxic as nicotine. Bad fashion is literally killing stuff,” he said. “If at the point of purchase you were presented with something that showed you it, some people just might think twice.”

Grant believes that while it is encouraging to see an increasing shift to more sustainable fashion, especially among millennials, more needs to be done to encourage shoppers to buy better quality clothes which they can keep for longer. “Make your own, repair your own, wear stuff for longer,” he encouraged. “We’ve got to get back to loving wearing stuff for longer. It saddens me that people have been conditioned into thinking they need to buy new stuff all the time. We have to break that mindset.”

Pure London takes place at Olympia London from the 21-23 July and will host over 700 fashion brands and designers.

Photo credit: ITE Group

Ralph Lauren's president of global brands plans to leave the company. Valérie Hermann, who has been with Ralph Lauren Corp. since 2014 will depart from her role, effective September 30. A replacement has not been announced.

“Valérie Hermann has made the decision to step down from her role. We had an open dialogue about this, and together agreed to transition the team she has successfully put in place to drive our brand strategy forward," reads a company statement. "Valérie has made a valuable impact on our business, strengthening our luxury capabilities and playing a critical role in our brand elevation strategy.”

The executive joined Ralph Lauren as president of luxury collections before becoming global brand president of luxury and eventually president of global brands almost three years ago. Prior to her work with Ralph Lauren, Hermann spent six years as CEO of Saint Laurent and four years as director of women's ready-to-wear for Dior.

Business of Fashion reported that Hermann's separation agreement entails 2.9 million dollars in salary and severance, with up to an an additional 300 thousand dollars in expenses.

Sneaker marketplace Goat has announced their official launch in China. With over 400 million millennials, China presents a massive opportunity for Goat. The market is the second largest for sneakers, and is already Goat's number one internationally.

To kick-start the launch, Goat will be hosting a three-day event in China, showcasing the rarest and most exclusive sneakers. A localized Goat app is available to users, along with a WeChat Mini Program in order to tailor to the China consumer ecosystem. The localized native app and WeChat Mini Program provide a seamless user interface with hi-resolution photos, offering a transparent shopping experience, similar to the platform used in the United States.

Goat has also opened a new facility in Hong Kong to better serve their marketplace in China as well as the Greater Asia Pacific region. "The sneaker community has grown tremendously in China, especially with the rise of basketball and hip hop culture. So it's no surprise the demand for sneakers has grown as well," said Eddy Lu, co-founder and CEO of Goat Group, in a statement. "We know that there is a huge need to ensure authentic sneakers in the global sneaker industry, and we believe China is the perfect market to begin our global expansion."

Operations for the expansion in China and the greater Asia Pacific region are being lead by the Goat team based in Shanghai. Consumer needs and behavior varies globally and Goat aims to give Chinese users an authentic experience tailored to their market.

"We know China is a unique market and if we use the same strategy as the U.S., we'll likely fail," Lu added in a statement. "We are building this product with a local team in order to provide the Chinese consumer with a better, more personalized experience."

photo: via PR Newswire

The Brooklyn Museum opened a retrospective on Pierre Cardin this weekend. Appropriate to the space age themes seen in the fashion designer's work, the exhibition was planned to open in time with the 50th anniversary of the Apollo moon landing.

Titled "Pierre Cardin: Future Fashion," the exhibition showcases all seven decades of Cardin's career, focused on his space-age fashions and futuristic designs.

Cardin gained notoriety in the later 20th century due to his avant-garde and highly creative couture designs, which later gave way to future couturiers like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Alexander McQueen.

As Cardin looked to the future and technology in his work, it is appropriate that Pierre Cardin: Future Fashion is sponsored by Chargeurs Fashion Technologies. Chargeurs provides solutions for brands with its technical fabrics that retain shape and structure.

“We are thrilled to be part of this major cultural moment celebrating one of the most iconic designers,” said Michaël Fribourg, chairman and CEO of Chargeurs, in a statement. “Pierre Cardin’s futuristic vision and fascination with new fabrics and materials are a consistent source of inspiration to us at Chargeurs, where we share his dedication to innovation.”

Photos: Jonathan Dorado, Brooklyn Museum

Antwerp-based knitwear brand Howlin is celebrating its tenth birthday. The brand has released a limited edition capsule collection exclusively through Mr. Porter.

In the ten years since Howlin was founded by brothers Jan and Patrick Olyslager, it has produced high-end knitwear with a seasonless approach that focuses on know-how and high-quality materials.

Carrying this same ethos, the Mr. Porter anniversary capsule features pre-fall artisanal knitwear items made from lambswool, high-quality cotton and Belgian terrycloth.

Howlin has made past capsule collections with Mr. Porter, as well as Opening Ceremony, Opening Ceremony x Ace Hotel, Mackintosh, Vendor and Cereal Magazine. Its main collection is carried through retailers internationally including Liberty, Opening Ceremony Corso Como and Unionmade.

Photos: Mr. Porter x Howlin

Two popular Brazilian brands are teaming up to create a bright and colorful collaboration. Fashion brand Farm Rio, which just debuted on the West Coast with a pop-up store in Los Angeles, has created a capsule collection of thong sandals with Havaianas, according to a press release.

The collection features Havaianas’ classic sandal in four prints created by Farm Rio that were inspired by the Amazon forest. The prints feature colorful patterns and graphics — which include leopard print, toucans, monkeys, and tropical flowers — the fashion label is known for.

The capsule collection is available for 26 USD on both brands’ websites.

Images: Courtesy of Farm Rio

Australian activewear and streetwear brand P.E. Nation is expanding its line of offerings to denim. In an announcement from the brand, P.E. Nation’s new line, aptly titled Denim. by P.E. Nation, has launched with an inaugural 16-piece collection includes pieces such as jeans and jackets and is inspired by the retro trends of the ‘70s, ‘80s, and ‘90s.

P.E. Nation’s two founders, Claire Tregoning and Pip Edwards — who both have a background in denim design, construction and styling — designed the collection. The pair worked closely with Adriano Goldschmied — the designer known as “the Godfather of denim” and the name behind AG Jeans — to produce the collection.

Along with its denim pieces, the collection features sweatshirts, tank tops and shoes from Converse. The Denim. by P.E. Nation collection ranges from 89 USD to 320 USD and is available now on the P.E. Nation website.

images: courtesy of p.e. nation