IN PICTURES British luxury brand Ralph & Russo has returned to Paris Haute Couture Week to unveil its autumn winter 2019/2020 couture collection, marking its twelfth season as part of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture’s official schedule and its first outdoor show.

Taking place in the grounds of the Embassy of the United Kingdom on the famous Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the Ralph & Russo AW19/20 couture collection depicted a 1930s ‘soirée en plein air’; a bustling scene wrought with flora, fauna and with the majestic luxury of the Art Deco era.

Inspired by the creative works of artist and designer Erté, the collection featured draping evening gowns with strings of pearls exposing hourglass silhouettes. The collection saw bold shades of red, pink, yellow and aqua juxtaposing ice-white feather embellished cocktail dresses and black bejewelled smoking jackets.

Embellished with opalescent fan-shaped embroideries inspired by the Art Deco era, the collection translates influences behind the Art Deco movement into a continued celebration of the modern female and her multi-faceted form.

Photo credit: Ralph & Russo

IN PICTURES Dutch couturier Iris van Herpen has always had a way of mesmerising with her fantasy fashion made with cutting-edge technology, with movement a key theme, and for autumn/winter 2019 her haute couture collection showcased in Paris's Élysée Montmartre was inspired by the wind-powered kinetic outdoor work of American artist Anthony Howe.

"The 'Hypnosis' collection is a hypnotic visualisation of nature’s tapestry, the symbiotic cycles of our biosphere that interweave the air, land, and oceans,” explained Iris van Herpen in the show notes. “It also reflects the ongoing dissection of the rhythms of life and resonates with the fragility within these interwoven worlds.’

Hypnotic is the right word, the collection finds inspiration through the hypnotic manifolds within our ecologies, reflecting the beauty and destruction of humans on nature’s lifestyles, with an examination of the patterns and structures in what the couturier describes as a “fragile landscape”.

This is showcased through Howe’s three-dimensional cyclical spherical 'Omniverse' sculpture, which is described as the “wind beneath the wings of this couture collection” and the infinite expansion and contraction, represents life cycles, while the “meditative movements” of the hypnotic spirals of the installation hung above the catwalk served as a portal for the collection and models.

Iris van Herpen displays cutting-edge technology with AW19 couture collection

To create her technological 'Hypnosis' couture, van Herpen collaborated with Professor Philip Beesley to create a technique that involves tens of thousands of plotter cut mini ripples that continuously dissect the dress through each movement of the body, revealing skin in between the whimsical spheroid patterns. The printed Duchesse-satin is plotter cut into thousands of 0.8 mm exquisite waves that each are interlinked, designed to move faster than the eye can follow.

While the ‘Dichotomy' looks are laser-printed, heat-bonded and laser-cut into contra-positive waves. Each dissected curve is then pressed onto hundreds of ripple-like panels that ebb and flow in an exquisite swell of meticulously hand-stitched silk organza.

Key looks included the finale 'Infinity' dress, which was brought to life through a finely balanced mechanism. The engineered skeleton of spirals made of aluminium, stainless steel and bearings, was embroidered with a delicate layering of feathers in cyclical flight, which revolves around its own centre.

While other dresses looked like ink floating on water cascading down the body, as an interpretation of the Japanese art of Suminagashi, where liquid lines of shimmering dyed silk were cut by laser technique, before being pressed with heat on transparent tulle, so that they seem to flow seamlessly over the skin.

Another stunning look was constructed from multi-layered luminous organza spheres, which challenge the relationship between surface and substance through illusory patterns that wrap into each other infinitely, to create a blurring pattern.

Images: courtesy of Iris van Herpen

After the meeting of its supervisory board, Hugo Boss Ag has announced that Bernd Hake, its chief sales officer, will be stepping down from the company’s managing board to pursue a new professional challenge. The company said, this decision was made by mutual consent and that managing board Chairman Mark Langer will be assuming Hake's responsibilities in the future.

"On behalf of the company and its employees, Hugo Boss would like to thank Bernd Hake for his tremendous dedication over the years," said supervisory board Chairman Michel Perraudin in a statement.

The company said, as managing director for the UK & Ireland region, Hake expanded retail operations in this important market. Subsequently, in his capacity as senior vice president, he guided the group's fortunes across the entire European market (EMEA) before taking up his seat on the managing board in 2016.

Picture:Hugo Boss website

Levi Strauss is getting serious about sustainability. The American heritage denim brand has partnered with International Finance Corporation (IFC) on a 2.3 million dollar cooperation agreement to meet corporate objectives regarding reducing greenhouse gas emissions and water usage.

According to a company statement, Levi Strauss has set science-based targets for itself. The company intends to achieve a 90 percent reduction in greenhouse gas emissions and use 100 percent renewable energy throughout its facilities, as well as reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 40 percent throughout its global supply chain by 2025.

"At Levi Strauss & Co., we’re not just about making great clothes — we’re about making great clothes in a sustainable way," the statement reads. "By doing what’s right for the planet, we create a business that’s as durable as the products we make."

IFC will help Levi Strauss to meet its goals through working with 42 suppliers and mills, implementing renewable energy and water-reducing tactics.

“We are thrilled to be partnering with the IFC to help achieve our science-based climate targets and benefit our vendors and their communities,” Levi's executive vice president, global product and supply chain, Liz O’Neill, said. “We hope this program can also benefit others in the apparel industry and help reduce our collective footprint.”

Picture:Levi's Off the Cuff blog

The wardrobe of screen legend Claudia Cardinale is to go under the hammer in Paris next week, with the star saying her clothes show "the liberation of women".

The Italian actress who featured in such classics as "The Leopard", Fellini's "8 1/2" and Sergio Leone's "Once Upon a Time in the West" told AFP: "These dresses don't show just my story but a chapter in women's history." Born in Tunisia, where she first came to notice after winning a beauty contest in 1957, Cardinale was both a sex symbol and an outspoken advocate of women's rights.

"You can feel I think the liberation of women of my generation" through the clothes, she added.

The Nina Ricci haute couture gown that she wore to the Oscars in 1965 is expected to attract the most bidding at the Sotheby's auction on July 9. Sotheby's fashion specialist Julia Guillon said the sequin-embroidered dress could go for as much as 20,000 euros (22,500 USD).

"It's a mythic dress that she wore on several big occasions," the expert added.

Guillon said Cardinale's wardrobe shows how society changed during her time at the top, going from "rather sober evening dresses to a pyjama number emblematic of the new more relaxed lifestyle and the even freer dresses of the 1970s."

The star said that each piece has a memory for her, none more so than a black satin dress with pink sequins she wore to the premiere of the 1971 spaghetti western "The Legend of Frenchie King", in which she co-starred with Brigitte Bardot.

"Everyone thought we were rivals, but we were complementary. I came in the dress and Brigitte was magnificent dressed as a man," Cardinale added.

The wardrobe of French star Catherine Deneuve sold for more than 1 million USD at Christie's in Paris in January.(AFP)

May this rookie mistake be a lesson for social media managers everywhere. Adidas has come under fire after a Twitter campaign to promote the release of its new Arsenal shirt backfired immensely, leading the brand to associate itself with racist, sexist, anti-Semitic and sexually explicit remarks.

Twitter users were encouraged to share a promotional tweet which automatically generated a customized picture of the shirt emblazoned with their Twitter username. The picture was then automatically retweeted by Adidas’ official Twitter account, along with the message “This is home. Welcome to the squad”. It didn’t take long for online trolls to start changing their usernames to have Adidas tweet images of shirts displaying offensive messages.

The offensive tweets have since been deleted, and both Adidas and Arsenal have apologized for the hijacking of their social media campaign.

Many aspire to work in fashion but getting there can be hard and finding the right fit, the one perfect job description, almost impossible. Over the last few months, FashionUnited has interviewed CEOs and vice presidents of brands and (r)e-tailers , designers, recruiting managers, international wholesale managers and others who are passionate about their job in the world of fashion. Find below a list and quick description of the valuable nuggets of advice dispensed by them for candidates aspiring for a career in fashion and for those looking to climb the ladder to higher profiles.

Davey Napoli, founder and CEO of Ambassador Retail and partner in two additional companies that service fashion brands, dispenses his valuable insights into achieving success in the fashion business.
CEO Interview: Tips for success with Davey Napoli, founder of Ambassador Retail

Ronald van der Kemp, winner of the Grand Seigneur, a prize that recognises exceptional service to The Netherlands and beyond, talks about his journey as a pioneering crusader of sustainability and ethical fashion.
Interview: Ronald van der Kemp, Holland's eco-couturier

Astrid Arndt, vice president of business engagement and recruitment for German e-tailer Zalando, reveals what professional characteristics, skills, aptitudes are sought in a candidate aspiring to be a part of Zalando’s corporate culture.
Zalando wants candidates with an analytical mind and a strong sense of fashion

Annalisa Lucarelli, head of people at Veepee Italy, explains what academic degrees, expertise and analytical skills are required by aspiring candidates to not get filtered out of a slew of resumes.
Veepee hires those who know how to move in complex contexts and get involved

Chei Burris, recruiting manager at California-based denim company Lucky Brand attributes hard work, passion, curiosity and being opinionated and courageous as the qualities that saw her work her way up through the staffing industry.
Interview: Chei Burris, recruiting manager at Lucky Brand

Argentinian designer Maria Abdala Zolezzi narrates how she created the brand Maydi with an environmentally friendly and sustainable approach, using fibres traditionally found in Argentina, such as merino and camelids wool to create ageless, contemporary designs.
Meet Maydi, the knitwear brand using local Argentinian fibres

Jess Tedds, international wholesale senior manager at womenswear brand Quiz Clothing, shares the ins and outs of her job and her top tips for a career in fashion wholesale.
Career Focus: What’s in a day’s work for a wholesale manager?

Kim Read, senior vice president and general manager at RetailMeNot, shares insights on affiliate marketing and what made more than 491 million people use RetailMeNot.com, with an average of over 20 million monthly mobile users in 2018.
RetailMeNot SVP Kim Read on the past, present and future of affiliate marketing

Photo: Marijke Aerden, courtesy of RVDK

Fast Retailing Co., the parent company of Japanese casual brand Uniqlo, has signed a global partnership with UN Women to promote women’s rights and empowerment in the apparel industry.

The two-year joint project will focus on three areas: promoting women’s career progression by providing leadership training to mid-career female workers; preparing women for the upcoming effects of automation by providing learning opportunities for workers interested in acquiring new skills; and raising awareness about the importance of gender equality among men, as they occupy the majority of managerial positions even though women account for about 80 percent of the workers in the garment industry.

Fast Retailing will invest 1.6 million US dollars (approximately 1.2 million pounds) in the project, which will target 200 of Uniqlo’s partner factories in Bangladesh, China and Vietnam. During the first year, UN Women researchers will assess the most prevalent gender-based challenges in these regions. The subsequent trainings, to be offered the following year, will be developed based on their findings.

"Fast Retailing is committed to ensure that all women who are main players in our business can fully demonstrate their abilities. This is essential for the sustainable growth of the entire supply chain, as well as to continue to offer products that meet customer expectations", said the President and CEO of Fast Retailing, Tadashi Yanai, in a statement.

Phumzile Mlambo-Ngcuka, Executive Director of UN Women, added: “Women comprise the majority of workers in the garment sector, but too often they are segregated into lower paying jobs that offer little chance for advancement. This new partnership with Fast Retailing is a chance to change that".

After renovating the iconic Boucheron store at 26 Place Vendome, the Kering Group has opened its very first fine jewelry boutique for Gucci located at number 16, according to the Fashion Network.

The inauguration of the store also marks the launch of Gucci’s fine jewelry line, with its first collection designed by the luxury brand’s creative director Alessandro Michele. The new collection is available in the boutique alongside the brand’s gold jewelry.

Gucci’s first fine jewelry collection, titled Hortus Deliciarum, includes over 200 pieces made in Italy and featuring colorful stones. The designs of the collection, are centered around three themes: eternal love, the animal kingdom, and solitaires.

According to the report, all of the gold the brand has bought since November 2015, as well as all of the diamonds, come from legally certified sources.

Italian clothing brand MSGM has announced that it will be launching an activewear line, according to WWD. The line will be available through retail and wholesale come February 2020.

This is founder and creative director Massimo Giorgetti’s first venture into the activewear world, which features clothing for sports, training, and leisure, for his brand. The announcement also follows the launch of its underwear collection for men and women, which was unveiled earlier this year.

With this new line, Giorgetti focuses on comfort and technical materials along with seamless pieces. The collection will include tops, leggings, sweatshirts, and more with the brand’s lettering.

With Nike hitting the headlines for its plus-size mannequin, we take a closer look at which activewear brands are celebrating size inclusivity and investing in plus-size ranges, as well as key brands to keep an eye on in the market.

The Body Positive Revolution

With traditional beauty ideals increasingly challenged, a new era of body positivity is underway where the concepts of plus-size and inclusivity are accepted and celebrated. With the Spring 2019 runway season reportedly the most size-inclusive yet, as well as big names including Savage x Fenty disrupting the market, retailers are beginning to take note.

Most recently in the activewear market, Nike received praise for introducing a plus-size mannequin at its London flagship store in order to 'celebrate the diversity and inclusivity of sport'.

Who’s driving this shift?

Vitality's 'Celebrate You' campaign. As part of the Vitality London 10km annual race, a new campaign called 'Celebrate You' was launched inviting runners of all ages, body types and backgrounds to complete the race in their underwear, in order to inspire and promote body positivity. The campaign featured a number of influencers, including Loose Women presenter Andrea McLean as well as podcasters and cancer campaigners Deborah James and Lauren Mahon.

Brands to watch

Girlfriend Collective

Launched in 2016, the brand is dedicated to sustainability using recycled materials. On top of this, the retailer has become more size inclusive, with its size range increasing from XS- 3X to XXS - 6XL.

Beyond Yoga

With sizes ranging from XXS - 3X, its aim is to 'share an honest message of inclusivity because we want everyone to embrace who they truly are'. Dedicated to providing the best possible fit, the company tests its garments on real women, including their staff.

K.Deer

Praised for its size and age inclusive attitude and campaigns, K.Deer offers activewear in sizes XS 4XL. Five percent of sales from its signature striped designs also go towards raising awareness and creating positive change for those in need.

This article was written for FashionUnited by EDITED. EDITED is the leader and industry-standard for real-time retail analytics, where the software leverages artificial intelligence to track and reveal insights on competitor product ranges, pricing, discounting and trends across the global retail landscape. The software is used by buyers, planners and trading teams to generate a huge competitive advantage.

Homepage image: Nike Town London courtesy of Nike

Chinese ecommerce platform Shein which has gained popularity in India with its trendy fashion offerings has partially shut down operations following a crackdown by Mumbai Customs and backlash on Chinese online retail in India. The e-tailer’s mobile app and website prominently displayed a message requesting customers to hold back as it upgrading its systems.

Earlier this month, Mumbai Customs seized about 500 parcels of Sino India Etail, the official Indian seller for Chinese apparel and lifestyle e-tailer Shein, and sealed a company warehouse in the city after officials found it undervaluing and wrongly declaring goods. The seizure is part of a crackdown on Chinese ecommerce imports into India by the Mumbai courier terminal against around a dozen companies for allegedly paying much lower customs duties. Besides Sino India Etail, a smaller number of parcels of Globemax Commerce India, the local unit of another Chinese e-tailer Club Factory, have also been seized.

Garo, the brand from Northeast, will be featured at the upcoming winter/festive edition of Lakmé Fashion Week in Mumbai to be held in Mumbai at the end of August. Garo uses heritage textiles from Northeast India to create women’s couture and ready-to-wear. It is named after the largest Meghalaya tribe and the aim is to use the brand to celebrate and showcase the Garos of Meghalaya. It is a luxury brand for women using heritage textiles and handcrafted techniques in remote parts of India with a contemporary vision. The brand’s upcoming collection will feature bold prints, motifs and color combinations inspired by traditional clothing from the northeastern region. Garo is meant to contribute towards building a range of sustainable, affordable and comfortable organic clothing suitable for a tropical country like India. The brand’s main customer base is aged between 25 and 45. Garo showcased its designs at a variety of runway shows across India since its launch in 2013. Celebrities like Madhuri Dixit Nene, Sania Mirza, Zareen Khan, Divya Khosla Kumar and Rakul Preet Singh have walked the ramp wearing Garo at different fashion shows during the last six years.

Garo is retailed through a handful of multi-brand boutiques across New Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Hyderabad, Raipur, and Ahmedabad.

Nike is pulling its Air Max 1 Quick Strike Fourth of July sneakers — which feature the Betsy Ross version of the American flag — after former NFL player and activist Colin Kaepernick announced that he and others consider it offensive. According to the Wall Street Journal, who first reported the news, Kaepernick reportedly reached out to Nike saying that he and others felt that this flag, which features 13 stars in a circle, was reminiscent of an era linked to slavery.

These shoes, which were scheduled to be released in celebration of Fourth of July, were pulled just days before the holiday. This particular design was created by Ross in 1770, but has since been associated with the likes of white supremacy.

Kaepernick contacted Nike to say that he considers its Fourth of July Sneakers, which feature Betsy Ross’ American flag, offensive.

According to CNBC, Nike has chosen not to release these sneakers because it featured an old version of the American flag. The company has asked retailers to return the shoes after they were already shipped. However, CNBC reports that pairs of the shoes have already made it to resale sites such as StockX, available for as much as $2,500.

Kaepernick, who appeared in Nike’s 30th Anniversary campaign of “Just Do It,” has become a major figure in the sports industry after he decided not to stand for the national anthem in 2016 as a protest against racial injustice.

Image: Colin Kaepernick/Facebook

In celebration of Netflix’s latest season of “Stranger Things” — which will be available for viewers on July 4 — Levi’s has teamed up with the television show to create a capsule collection of men’s and women’s products, many of which will be seen on characters Eleven and Dustin in its third season.

According to an announcement from Levi’s corporate blog, Levi’s went into its archives to create ‘80s-era designs for the collection, since “Stranger Things” is set in 1985. The denim company’s design team also worked closely with the costume designers of the television show to create authentic looks for the aforementioned characters.

Levi’s collaborated with “Stranger Things” costume designers to create authentic ‘80s looks for the characters.

“When the ‘Stranger Things’ opportunity slid across my desk, my nose started to bleed,” said Levi’s senior vice president of innovation Jonathan Cheung in a statement. “Being able to work on some of the costumes with their amazing designers was another level of collaboration.”

The 18-piece collection, which is available online and Levi’s stores now, features T-shirts, shirts, jeans, denim jackets, sweatshirts, accessories, and more ranging from 25 USD to 148 USD.

Images: Levi’s

Footwear brand Toms, which is known for its Buy One Give One business model, has teamed up with the Star Wars franchise to create a limited capsule collection inspired by the iconic movie series.

Ranging from 39.95 USD to 94.95 USD, the collection features 10 styles of shoes for both men, women, and children that showcase custom prints inspired by movie storyboards. The capsule includes the brand’s Classic style as well as its Trvl Lite shoe.

The Toms x Star Wars collaboration launches to build up anticipation of the upcoming film, Rise of the Skywalker, which will be in theaters December 2019. The capsule is available on Toms’ website and in stores now.

Image: Toms

Employees of the luxury lingerie label La Perla have gone on strike in protest of the company’s potential plans to cut at least 100 roles from its headquarters in Bologna, according to Fashion Network. Currently, the label has 430 employees — this cut would affect about one quarter of the brand.

At the threat of these job cuts, unions immediately called for a 16-hour strike, which began on June 25. As a result, the unions have seen a notable amount of support from the brand’s employees. According to the report, 100 percent of La Perla employees took part in the protest.

An emergency meeting was held on Tuesday between representatives of La Perla and the regional authorities.

After renovating the iconic Boucheron store at 26 Place Vendome, the Kering Group has opened its very first fine jewelry boutique for Gucci located at number 16, according to the Fashion Network.

The inauguration of the store also marks the launch of Gucci’s fine jewelry line, with its first collection designed by the luxury brand’s creative director Alessandro Michele. The new collection is available in the boutique alongside the brand’s gold jewelry.

Gucci’s first fine jewelry collection, titled Hortus Deliciarum, includes over 200 pieces made in Italy and featuring colorful stones. The designs of the collection, are centered around three themes: eternal love, the animal kingdom, and solitaires.

According to the report, all of the gold the brand has bought since November 2015, as well as all of the diamonds, come from legally certified sources.

L’Oreal has confirmed that it has entered into an exclusive negotiation with the Clarins Group to acquire the Mugler fragrance and fashion businesses, as well as the Azzaro fragrance brand and accessories.

The move, which it said remains “subject to consultation” will be completed later this year, is part of L’Oreal’s plans to reinforce its upmarket cosmetics and fragrance position. While on the other hand the sale would mean that Clarins would exit the perfume and ready-to-wear markets to focus on skin care.

Clarins added that the fragrances industry has “changed dramatically in recent years to become one of the most competitive and demanding markets in terms of marketing investment and critical mass” and that the sale of the Mugler and Azzaro brands would allow them both “to grow amid these new conditions”.

Cyril Chapuy, president L'Oréal Luxe, said in a statement: "The perfume category is at the heart of our global strategy for growth at L'Oréal Luxe. In this context, we would be thrilled to welcome Mugler and Azzaro: these signatures, with a long history in fashion and olfaction, would perfectly complete our portfolio of brands."

Christian and Olivier Courtin-Clarins, president of the Supervisory Board and managing director of the Clarins Group, added: “Our group shares strong values with L’Oréal, including a long-term vision and a management style that is respectful of employees. These similarities have played a significant role in our project to entrust Mugler and Azzaro to the French group and global beauty leader.

“We know that if the project goes through, our two brands will enjoy optimal conditions as part of L’Oréal Luxe, which will guarantee their future growth, benefiting our employees. We would thus be in able to focus on ensuring our Beauty division reaches its full potential.”

The acquisition will include Mugler’s portfolio of perfumes including the blockbuster Angel women’s scent and bestseller, Alien, as well as Azzaro Pour Homme and Chrome, and Wanted and Wanted Girl, which was introduced to target younger consumers.

L’Oreal did not disclose financial details of the planned acquisitions.

Chanel’s new artistic director Virginie Viard displayed an ode to history, of the French fashion houses’ two most famous couturiers, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld, who’s legacy could certainly be felt inside the elaborate library set concealed within the Grand Palais.

The huge double-tier circular library, could have just been seen as a homage to Lagerfeld, an avid collector of books, apparently he owned thousands, but the show notes describe Viard as “an eternal book lover” and the library really was the perfect backdrop for her bookish couture and nonchalant elegance filled with tweed, delicate embroidered florals, jewel tones, and the brand’s signature skirt-suits.

While this may have been Viard’s first official solo couture show in charge, she has been overseeing haute couture under Lagerfeld since 1997, and her 70-strong couture collection served up serene elegance, showing that this wasn’t her first rodeo in a blockbuster setting proving that she is more than capable since taking over the Chanel design studio from her boss of three decades.

For autumn/winter 2019, the Chanel couture woman is still looking for the fashion house’s signature short skirt suits, with a modern vibrant update in raspberry and orange tones but still with the preppy buttons, as well as bow tie pumps, which are sure to the next Chanel must-have shoe, and they are still favouring tweed, lots and lots of tweed, with coat-and-trouser looks and long tweed coats, which could double as maxi dresses, as well as strapless evening gowns.

Chanel showcases autumn/winter 2019 couture inside circular library set

There was also a lot of newness with the tweed, notably a bold, confident fuchsia tweed suit with blouson-style jacket styled with a mini skirt and even tweed dungarees, which seemed to target a younger demographic.

Other highlights included 1930s-style wide trousers, which could be seen as a homage to Coco, while the high white feathered collars a nod to Lagerfeld, embroidered sequins and delicate flowers, bolero jackets formed from clustered feather roses, as well as bright colour pops, and full-skirted Fifties-style silhouettes.

All eyes seem to be on whether Viard can drive forward the Chanel brand, from her debut solo couture outing she proved that she has a distinct feminine artistic vision, while respecting the house codes invented by Coco and reinvented by Lagerfeld, but there definitely felt that there was a shift to accessible luxury with everyday clothing being the new luxury.

Images: Chanel Couture AW19, Catwalkpictures