Watch Diesel’s runway show at Milan Fashion Week showcasing their SS25 collection.

GU, the sister brand to Uniqlo and part of the Fast Retailing Group, has unveiled a collaboration with emerging luxury brand Rokh by designer Rok Hwang.

Rokh, which earlier this year teamed up with Swedish retailer H&M, has collaborated with GU on an exclusive ‘Play in Style’ themed outerwear, apparel, accessories and footwear collection, launching on October 18.

The 22-piece GU x Rokh collection celebrates elegance and originality at an accessible price point and features tailored pieces, playful layering and designs in muted colour palettes that reinterpret the classics.

In a statement, GU said that the pieces offer “unique versatility and the freedom to mix and match according to individual style,” to highlight its brand philosophy “mini edit max, which brings max style and quality with mini prices and curated collections”.

Highlights include a quilted check bomber jacket with zip detailing on the sleeves to transform the coat into a cape, a convertible two-piece long coat that allows you to remove the short coat and wear it as a long gilet, a shirt with bustier, a layered two-piece pleated skirt and pants, a hoodie scarf, a cable sweater with voluminous sleeves that can be worn unbuttoned, and Mary Jane shoes.

The collection, which includes US exclusives, will be available online from October 18 at gu-global.com/us/en and at the newly opened SoHo flagship in New York. It will also be offered at GU stores throughout Asia. Prices range from 24.99 to 99.99 US dollars.

Less than hours after Celine announced it had parted ways with Hedi Slimane, its artistic, creative and image director since January 2018, the French fashion house has appointed Michael Rider as its new artistic director.

Rider, previously creative director of Polo Ralph Lauren, will take up his new role in early 2025 and will be creatively responsible for all Celine collections, including womenswear, menswear, leather goods, accessories, and couture.

The move marks a return to the French fashion house for Rider, who served as design director at Celine for a decade, working under the label’s then-creative director, Phoebe Philo. Before Celine, he began his fashion career at Balenciaga with Nicholas Ghesquiere.

Commenting on the appointment, Severine Merle, chief executive of Celine, said in a statement: “I am delighted to welcome Michael back to Celine, a Maison that he knows intimately. Michael’s vision, creative talent, together with his genuine nature and strong connection to Celine’s heritage make him a natural choice to continue to build a long-lasting success for the Maison.”

Rider added: “Celine is a Maison with values very close to my heart and a beautiful heritage to build on. I am honoured to come back and shape the future of the Maison together with the Celine team.”

Hedi Slimane announces departure from Celine

Rider’s appointment comes just hours after Celine's parent company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, declared Hedi Slimane was leaving the house after seven years.

On Slimane's leadership, LVMH said: “Under his creative and artistic direction, Celine has experienced exceptional growth and established itself as an iconic French couture house.

“The holistic vision of Hedi Slimane, his exigence and rigour have made it possible to redefine the codes of Celine whilst reaffirming its feminine and Parisian roots. He has also remarkably enriched new territories for the Maison, such as the men’s silhouette, couture and haute parfumerie.

“The extraordinary journey taken together over the last seven years has made Celine a house with a formidable foundation for the future.”

Slimane’s departure came just days after he unveiled his spring/summer 2025 women’s collection for Celine with a 10-minute film rather than a catwalk show.

Watch Dolce & Gabbana’s runway show at Milan Fashion Week showcasing their SS25 collection.

Watch Ferragamo’s runway show at Milan Fashion Week showcasing their SS25 collection.

The burgeoning second-hand market has thrust a profession once shrouded in obscurity into the spotlight: the anti-counterfeit expert. It's a highly sought-after profession today, with many candidates and few chosen ones. Yet, the demand for experts in luxury goods is increasing as the second-hand fashion industry gains traction.

"There's a rigorous selection process, as it's a profession that many dream of," said Victoire Boyer-Chammard, expertise ambassador & partnerships manager at Vestiaire Collective. She currently leads the Vestiaire Académie ) and explains that she learned her trade on the job, after a career in the auction world. That's also true for most of the anti-counterfeit experts working at Vestiaire Collective, who have been able to benefit from the company's training programme.

What qualifications are needed?

While it's now possible and effective to receive training from the employer, aspiring experts can also pursue studies that open doors to the profession. But aside from the Vestiaire Académie, there are few specific qualifications with a specialisation in fashion. Those who aspire to a job as an authenticator must therefore follow programmes that allow them to gain knowledge about the history and culture of fashion, learn about the landscape of luxury brands, understand the construction of clothing and accessories, and gain knowledge about textiles.

What career opportunities are there?

Aspiring anti-counterfeit experts can apply to platforms specialising in the resale of fashion items, but also work as consultants for various brands or join auction houses.

The future of the profession doesn't seem to be threatened by artificial intelligence yet, as the human eye is essential for detecting counterfeit items, which are sometimes extremely well made. However, technology is already being used by Vestiaire Collective's expert teams, who use algorithms, among other things, to carry out extremely precise checks when an item is placed in the catalogue.

This article originally appeared on http://FashionUnited.FR . Translation via AI and edit by Rachel Douglass.

For the third quarter, Levi Strauss net revenues of 1.5 billion dollars were flat on a reported basis, and 2 percent higher on a constant-currency basis.

Levi Strauss announced that it has initiated a formal review of strategic alternatives for the Dockers brand, which could include a potential sale or other strategic transaction.

The company’s net income rose to 21 million dollars and adjusted net income to 132 million dollars. Diluted earnings per share were 5 cents compared to 2 cents and adjusted diluted earnings per share were 33 cents compared to 28 cents in the third quarter of 2023.

“The underlying fundamentals of our business are getting stronger, driven by the Levi’s brand, which grew 5 percent globally in Q3, a significant acceleration from H1 and the highest revenue growth in two years,” said Michelle Gass, president and CEO of Levi Strauss & Co. 

Levi’s brand revenues grow by 5 percent in Q3

The company said in a statement that Levi’s brand was up 5 percent globally. In the Americas, net revenues decreased 1 percent on a reported basis and were flat on a constant-currency basis.

In Europe, net revenues increased 6 percent on a reported basis and 7 percent on a constant-currency basis, reflecting positive growth across a majority of markets and in both channels.

Asia net revenues were roughly in line with prior year on a reported basis and up 4 percent on a constant currency basis.

Other brands' net revenues decreased 7 percent on a reported basis and 5 percent on a constant-currency basis. Dockers decreased 15 percent on a reported basis and 13 percent on a constant-currency basis. Beyond Yoga increased 19 percent on a reported and constant-currency basis.

DTC net revenues increased 10 percent on a reported basis and 12 percent on a constant currency basis. DTC growth reflected a 12 percent increase in the US and a 9 percent increase in Europe. Net revenues from e-commerce grew 16 percent on a reported basis and 18 percent on a constant-currency basis. Wholesale net revenues decreased 6 percent on a reported basis and 5 percent on a constant-currency basis.

Operating margin was 2 percent compared to 2.3 percent in the third quarter of 2023, adjusted EBIT margin increased 250 basis points to 11.6 percent, and gross margin increased 440 basis points to 60 percent.

Levi Strauss expects FY25 revenues to grow between 1.5 to 2 percent

The company returned approximately 69 million dollars to shareholders in the third quarter, a 45 percent increase over prior year, including dividends of 52 million dollars, representing a dividend of 13 cents per share and ahare repurchases of 18 million dollars, reflecting 1 million shares retired.

For fiscal 2024, the company added that reported net revenues are expected to grow approximately 1 percent, and constant-currency net revenues are expected to grow 1.5 percent to 2 percent.

The company expects adjusted diluted EPS to be at the midpoint of the previously guided range of 1.17 dollars to 1.27 dollars.

"We are taking decisive actions to address the areas where we’ve underperformed, including our decision to evaluate strategic alternatives for Dockers. We remain confident in our ability to drive long-term shareholder value,” added Harmit Singh, chief financial and growth officer of Levi Strauss & Co.

Costa de Pájaros, Costa Rica - On a beach in Costa Rica, as fishermen land the day's catch, two women are hard at work on a slimy sea bass skin, rubbing, scraping, washing, and tanning the hide to turn it into leather.

Two years ago, both Mauren Castro, 41, and Marta Sosa, 70, were stay-at-home mums dependent on their fishermen husbands to provide for their families of four and six, respectively.

Today, they are part of the all-female Piel Marina (Marine Skin) cooperative, which turns fish skins that used to be discarded at sea into sustainable fashion.

For generations, fishing was the economic mainstay in Costa de Pájaros, a village situated about 62 miles (100 kilometers) west of the capital San José.

But fishermen say that regulations aimed at making stocks more sustainable, which this year included a complete ban on fishing between May and July, have made it harder to live off the sea.

Enter the NGO MarViva, which helped train 15 women to establish themselves as seafront tanners two years ago.

The women were skeptical at first about the sartorial possibilities of fish skins.

"We said 'how can a skin, which is something that gets smelly, which is waste, be the raw material for women to be able to get ahead'?" Castro, 41, told AFP.

But over time, they honed their trade and are helping supplement their families' meager incomes.

Facebook and Instagram

Wearing blue rubber gloves and white t-shirts bearing the words Piel Marina, Sosa and Castro show how a skin rescued from a filleted sea bass can become a pair of earrings, a necklace, or even a handbag.

First, they rub the skin gently between their fingers to remove the scales and any remaining flesh.

"Then we take it and wash it with soap, as if we were washing clothes. Then we dye it with glycerin and alcohol and natural dye, and then we dry it," Sosa explained.

The dyeing process takes four days, with another four needed for the leather to dry in the sun to produce a fabric that is soft and pliable but strong.

Crucially, it no longer smells of fish and has the advantage of being waterproof.

The women are not only tanners but have also become jewelry designers who sell colorful earrings and necklaces on Instagram and Facebook.

A pair of earrings in the shape of a butterfly costs the equivalent of about seven dollars.

The women also sell some of the leather to small-scale textile producers in Puntarenas, the main port on Costa Rica's Pacific coast.

Indigenous tradition

Costa Rica is just the latest country to catch onto the potential of fish tanning, an age-old practice among Indigenous peoples from Alaska to Scandinavia to Asia.

While salmon skins were traditionally used by the Ainu people in Japan and the Inuit in northern Canada to make boots and clothes, on the shores of Lake Victoria in Kenya they now use the local tilapia delicacy to make handbags.

Brazilian company Nova Kaeru, meanwhile, offers leather made from the discarded scales of the giant pirarucu fish, which is native to the Amazon.

On the internet, fish leather bags sell for hundreds of dollars.

One of the first big-name fashion designers to get hooked on the skins was former Dior creative director John Galliano, who sported an Atlantic salmon skin jacket and fish leather bag in his 2002 collections.

For the moment, the women of the Piel Marina cooperative are glad to have a job that gets them away from domestic chores and provides them with a small income.

But they dream of the day when the leather they make by hand on the beach struts the global stage. Castro's eyes shine at the prospect.

"I would like it to be seen in Hollywood, in Canada, or on the great catwalks in Paris!"

Ahead of the 2024 NFL London games this month, American sports-related clothing company Mitchell & Ness has unveiled a capsule collection with the Minnesota Vikings.

The ‘Three Deep’ collection honours the Vikings’ legendary wide receiver trio Cris Carter, Randy Moss and Jake Reed with classic NFL designs featuring limited-edition bespoke T-shirts and hoodies.

The trio of Carter, Moss and Reed are renowned as one of the greatest in NFL history and live long in the folklore of the Vikings, leading the team to a 15-1 season in 1998 with a combined 33 touchdowns between them.

The capsule drop features different graphic tees and hoodies with one design for each player and a standout that features the dynamic trio. Prices start at 45 pounds.

The collection will only be available in-store and celebrated with a takeover of Mitchell & Ness’ pop-up store at 140 Wardour Street in Soho, London, until October 8.

The takeover will include NFL stars Carter and Reed making an appearance at Mitchell & Ness’ pop-up on October 5, ahead of the Minnesota Vikings facing off against the New York Jets at Tottenham Hotspur Stadium on October 6.

In Pictures

Fitness brand Built for Athletes, known for its high-performance bags and accessories, is entering the apparel market with its first-ever clothing collection.

After almost a decade of experience, Built for Athletes is utilising its functional performance and innovation expertise for its new nine-piece athleticwear collection for men and women.

The collection, which has been 12 months in the making, aims to offer resilient performance products in the spirit of its accessories, offering pieces engineered for sweat, movement and durability to give comfort and confidence during the most intense workouts and includes T-shirts, joggers, shorts, training leggings, and a unisex zip top.

Highlights include the men’s training jogger, featuring four-way stretch material for unrestricted movement, an antibacterial and sweat-wicking finish, and a convenient zipped pocket for securely storing essentials, and the women’s training sports bra, which offers cover-stitched seams to prevent irritation and a lower waistband for added support.

Nick Costello, founder and creative director of Built For Athletes, said in a statement: “Clothing was the next natural step for us as a brand, and entering a new category has been a really exciting adventure. Over the last year, we’ve relentlessly focused on creating the best performance clothing available in order to match the premium quality of our existing bags and accessories.

“We focused exclusively on delivering products that combine practicality with premium quality to enhance performance, and I believe we have succeeded in this.”

Built for Athletes apparel is available exclusively via the brand’s website. Prices start from 9.99 pounds.

French luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has signed a 10-year partnership agreement with Formula 1 to become the motorsport’s global partner.

The move comes as F1 prepares to celebrate its 75th anniversary in 2025 and will see several of LVMH’s Maisons involved in the partnership, including Louis Vuitton, Moët Hennessy and TAG Heuer.

Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive of LVMH Group, said in a statement: “The people, the quest for excellence and the passion for innovation are at the heart of the activity of our Maisons and Formula 1.

“In motorsport as in fashion, watchmaking or wines and spirits, every detail counts on the path to success. Both in our workshops and on circuits around the world, it is this incessant search to break boundaries that inspires our vision, and this is the meaning that we want to bring to this great and unique partnership between Formula 1 and our Group.”

Described as an “unprecedented agreement,” the collaboration between LVMH and F1 will launch at the beginning of next season. Full details of the partnership will be announced in early 2025.

LVMH said its teams will share their “savoir-faire and entrepreneurial spirit with the world of Formula 1 through hospitality, bespoke activations, limited editions and outstanding content”.

Stefano Domenicali, president and chief executive of Formula 1, added: “Our sport is founded on the relentless pursuit of excellence, a value that also lies at the heart of LVMH, so I am delighted to announce this historic partnership will begin in 2025.

“As Formula 1 continues its global growth, attracting new and more diverse audiences, the strength and breadth of LVMH makes it the perfect partner for us to work with as we look to continually enhance the experience of our fans and the heritage of our incredible sport. This is a landmark partnership for both companies, and I would like to thank Bernard and Frédéric Arnault for their vision and commitment to bring this to life.”

In Pictures

Klarna, the AI-powered global payments network and shopping assistant and Angel City Football Club, a member of the National Women’s Soccer League, has unveiled a capsule collection with LA-based Latinx lifestyle brand, Hija de tu Madre.

The limited-edition clothing collection launches in celebration of Hispanic Heritage Month and features the phrase “del alma de los ángeles” or “from the souls of the angels,” a tie back to Angel City FC and Hija De Tu Madre’s Latinx heritage.

The line, designed by Patty Delgado, founder and chief executive of Hija De Tu Madre, includes a T-shirt, hat, zip-up and bag.

Ten percent of all proceeds from the collection will go directly to the Central American Resource Center (CARECEN) Los Angeles, a non-profit organisation that facilitates immigrant integration programmes for Central Americans and matched by Klarna.

The collaboration is part of Klarna’s ongoing efforts to bring more merchandise styles to women’s sports fans, following its ‘Rep Her’ initiative, which addressed the glaring discrepancy between the styles, quantities, sizes and more available for women’s sports fans in comparison to fans of men’s sports.

Megan Gokey, head of B2C marketing and brand partnerships, North America and UK at Klarna, said in a statement: “Currently, the women’s sports merchandise market lacks in styles, sizes and availability in general for fans. As a shopping and payments service, Klarna is all about bringing fans closer to the game and athletes they love by increasing access to more merchandise and helping fans shop smarter so they can fan harder.

“Our work with Angel City FC has always been about putting the fans at the heart of what we do and elevating the fan experience by providing more access, so we’re thrilled to bring Hija De Tu Madre in as the designer of this year’s capsule collection to celebrate ACFC’s Latinx community and beyond.”

The four styles will be available to shop with Klarna via shop.angelcity.com.

Wolf & Badger, the global marketplace for independent brands, has introduced a curated collection of premium, ethically produced pet products to cater to the growing consumer demands to provide for their pets while upholding their ethical values.

The new category aims to bring Wolf & Badger’s commitment to craftsmanship and conscious practices into the world of pet care, offering consumers stylish accessories, eco-friendly toys, organic grooming products, and sustainably made pet wearables.

Each product in the new pets category has been handpicked to reflect core Wolf & Badger values: supporting independent designers and prioritising quality and flair, as underpinned by fair production.

Highlights include luxury pet accessories, such as handcrafted collars, leashes, and beds made from sustainable and cruelty-free materials, and stylish, functional clothing and accessories for pets made with responsibly sourced materials.

In addition, Wolf & Badger offers eco-friendly toys crafted from recycled and biodegradable materials and organic grooming products, such as natural and organic shampoos, conditioners, and wellness products free from harsh chemicals, designed with pets’ health and the environment in mind. There will also be festive pet gifting from independent brands.

Béis, the luggage brand founded by actress Shay Mitchell, is teaming up with resale tech company Trove to offer a new resale platform to offer pre-loved Béis products.

‘Second Béis’ will let consumers buy gently used best-selling Béis products, including weekenders, rollers, backpacks, and commuter totes/duffles.

Adeela Hussain Johnson, chief executive of Béis, said in a statement: "This programme does two things — it gives our bags a longer lifecycle, and it gives us the opportunity to reach more lives. We know there are people out there who haven’t been able to try our products yet, and we see Second Béis as a new access point to bring them into our community.

"We’ve seen how much the younger generations are leaning into shopping second-hand and investing in pieces that will last, and we think this ethos deeply resonates with our goals for this programme. Consumers who might not have shopped our brand before will be able to experience the function, fashion, and versatility of our products while also engaging with our goal to make sure all of our bags — even the ones with minor cosmetic imperfections — keep traveling."

The move marks Trove’s first true luggage brand partner and will see the platform powered by Trove’s resale operations and Shopify integration technology to offer customers a seamless shopping experience for pre-loved items, including mixed-cart functionality, enabling customers to combine new and used products in a single checkout for convenience.

On the operational side, Trove’s Recommerce Warehouse Management System (ReWMS) will manage logistics, from inspecting items to intelligently routing them to their optimal selling channel or next-best-use outcome to ensure efficient integration of inventory data into Béis’ existing commerce stack.

Terry Boyle, chief executive of Trove, added: “Second Béis demonstrates how Trove’s platform is driving growth in an increasingly broad range of product categories.

“With recommerce modules available for any inventory type and program launches possible in as little as 4 weeks, Trove is putting profitable resale within reach for any brand. With Béis and 40 other brands live on our platform, there’s never been a better time for shoppers to find compelling pre-owned items, directly from the brands they love.”

British clothing and lifestyle brand Seasalt has opened its first standalone store in the US, bringing the spirit of Cornwall to Cape Cod in Falmouth, Massachusetts, as it implements its US retail expansion plans.

Located in the heart of Falmouth, the 2,500 square foot store on Main Street is the largest of all Seasalt stores and showcases a comprehensive collection of womenswear, alongside its ‘Rain’ collections and a curated edit of its menswear range to support further growth ambitions for the brand.

“The shop reflects the brand’s handwriting throughout, bringing Cornwall to the Cape by celebrating a mix of local and Cornish makers and artists – from Falmouth UK to Falmouth MA,” explains Seasalt in a statement.

Seasalt drives forward US expansion

The store has been designed in line with the Seasalt Lite concept, showcasing the brand’s sustainability credentials and reducing the store’s carbon footprint. Most of the fixtures were made in New Jersey by a skilled carpentry team using American-grown and manufactured birch plywood materials to create versatile furniture and fittings that can be moved, reused, and repurposed. In addition, all fixtures and fittings were chosen with longevity and flexibility in mind.

Commenting on the opening, Paul Hayes, chief executive of Seasalt Cornwall, said: "Falmouth, on the Cape, was an obvious choice for us to start our journey across the Atlantic - we see it as our home from home. There are so many synergies, the shared coastal location and colour palette of the environment, maritime references, pace of life, sustainability values, we feel a real connection already.

“Many of our existing US customers discovered the brand on a visit to the UK so we know that our stores here have resonated with them. We are confident that our reputation for exceptional customer service, the quality and aesthetic of our collection and our commitment to doing the right thing for people and planet will appeal to customers in Falmouth and future US locations.”

While this marks the brand’s first brick-and-mortar presence in the US, Seasalt announced last November that it was looking to open up to 20 stores across the country over the next three years to build on its presence established through an online partnership with department store chain, Belk.

Pink +

Priya Ahluwalia

Paul Costelloe

Ashley Williams

Feben

Blue +

Bora Aksu

Chet Lo

JW Anderson

Emilia Wickstead

Green +

Charlie Constantinou

Burberry: designer, Daniel Lee

Johanna Parv

Erdem Moralioglu

Orange +

Toga: designer, Yasuko Furuta

Mark Fast

Feben

Buerlangma: designer, QiQi Yuan

Grey+

Emilia Wickstead

Erdem

Ashley Williams

Burberry: designer, Daniel Lee

Wellness and beauty firm Arbonne International has appointed Lori Burgher as its new chief marketing and growth officer.

The company said in a release that Burgher is already leading Arbonne's marketing efforts, focusing on high-impact strategies to drive customer engagement and solidify Arbonne's position as a leader in sustainable, ethical wellness and beauty products.

With over 25 years of experience, Burgher has led marketing campaigns and growth initiatives for companies in both domestic and international markets. Her expertise encompasses brand management, digital experience, customer relationship management, and data-driven decision-making.

Commenting on her new role, Lori Burgher said: "With new product formulations, cutting-edge technology, and a dedicated focus on sustainability, I look forward to collaborating with our teams to position Arbonne for sustained growth and innovation."

At Arbonne, Burgher will be responsible for steering the creation of the company’s product innovation strategy, marketing plans, managing brand visibility initiatives, and employing data analytics to enhance customer experiences.

"Lori's appointment marks an exciting new chapter for Arbonne as we expand in the wellness industry. Her customer-focused, data-driven approach will help Arbonne maintain its leadership while adapting to the evolving needs of our customers and markets," added Jen Orlando, Arbonne CEO.

Trade fair organiser Pitti Immagine has announced the next guest brand for its men’s fashion fair Pitti Uomo: MM6 Maison Margiela.

The avant-garde label is presenting a men's collection designed exclusively for the fair, Pitti Immagine revealed on Thursday, which will be shown during the upcoming Pitti Uomo, set to take place from January 14 to 17 in Florence. MM6 Maison Margiela's womenswear will be presented as usual at Milan Fashion Week in February.

In addition to MM6, Satoshi Kuwata will also be present at the 107th edition of Pitti Uomo with his brand Setchu .

"We are honoured and delighted to be invited as guest designers at Pitti Uomo next January, as part of the world's most important menswear fair," said the brand. "We intend to bring the style and spirit of MM6 and design a menswear project specifically for Florence. After almost 20 years, we are delighted to bring Maison Margiela back to the Pitti stage and present a contemporary men's wardrobe that reflects the attitude, concepts and processes of MM6."

Maison (Martin) Margiela already took over the entire exhibition grounds at Pitti Uomo 69 in 2006 with a “universe”. There was also a showcase with 20 models wearing looks from the fashion house’s previous men’s collections, which particularly focused on shades of white, in the disused Teatro Puccini cinema.

Founded in 1997 as a second line of Maison Margiela, MM6 offers a more contemporary and wearable approach than the core brand, covering all-gender ready-to-wear, shoes, accessories and leather goods.

The French fashion house, founded by Belgian designers Martin Margiela and Jenny Meirens, is part of the Italian fashion conglomerate OTB Group, which also includes brands such as Diesel, Marni and Jil Sander.

Missoni is saying goodbye to its creative director Filippo Grazioli, who has been at the helm of the Italian fashion house since 2022. His last collection for the fashion house was presented on September 20 during Milan Fashion Week. Missoni immediately announced Grazioli's successor to be Alberto Caliri, as reported by WWD.

In an interview with the trade platform, Missoni CEO Livio Proli confirmed that Caliri will be the new creative director. Caliri knows the brand well, having initially joined the fashion house as a designer in 1998 and later succeeding Angela Missoni as interim creative director in May 2021. He also designed the brand's spring and autumn 2022 collections. A year later, he moved to Missoni's interior collection, working under the supervision of co-founder Rosita Missoni.

Missoni is a family-owned company, founded in 1953 by Ottavio and Rosita. The brand is known worldwide for its unique style and, according to its website, generates 75 percent of its revenue from international sales.

The Paris Fashion Week in September 2024 was fully booked, showcasing an increased presence of industry professionals and fans, creating a strong connection between creativity, a sense of luxury, openness to diverse cultures, and a desire for more virtuous fashion.

This season’s Paris Fashion Week, featuring the ready-to-wear collections for spring/summer 2025, concluded this week, with one of the primary takeaways being the significant turnout. This was evident even outside the shows, where TikTok accounts shared show addresses, resulting in compact crowds on the pavements, mainly as a result of brands investing in celebrity and influencer attendance to energise their front rows.

There was bustling activity not only at the shows but also in salons, showrooms, and on the streets of Paris, transforming the city centre and the Golden Triangle of the French capital into a vibrant stream of people. Boris Provost, managing director of the Paris trade fair Tranoï, confirmed a 3 percent increase in buyers compared to September 2023, and a 9 percent increase since March 2024. "Another interesting factor is the proportion of repeat visits," he told FashionUnited. "Buyers are returning to confirm their orders, particularly from major clients."

To accommodate the growing number of presentations on their calendars (and around the fashion shows), the French fashion association Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) provided an additional shuttle bus for participants. However, it was impossible for journalists and international buyers to attend every event, necessitating a selective approach to their schedules, much like how designers edit their collections to create a more compact presentation without missing out on highlights.

Young French designers and economic prospects of Paris Fashion Week

This season saw young French designers, who enjoyed exceptional visibility during the opening ceremonies of the 2024 Paris Olympic and Paralympic Games, taking centre stage for SS25. They received some financial support from Défi and the Paris City Hall, confidently collaborated with commercial brands, and the winners of the 2023/2024 ANDAM awards showcased their works at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

Typically, these young designers should benefit economically from their exposure. However, it is impossible to ascertain whether this momentum will lead to orders and whether those orders will be fulfilled. This is further complicated as managers, sales representatives, and trade fair leaders cannot disclose figures regarding the business volume of brands presenting during fashion week.

"We do not register the volume of orders placed at the fairs, as not all are completed on-site," says Florence Rousson, chair of the Fashion Department at the Première Vision fair. A global overview is difficult to define. The fashion market, predominantly spread across Europe, the US, and Asia, is influenced by many factors. There are divergences regarding product consumption and generational differences."

"The only thing we observe," she adds, "is a very strong dynamism in fashion accessories. Young people are capable of dressing in Shein and then purchasing a Chanel bag."

A survey conducted in 2016 by the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) in partnership with market research firm Ipsos reported figures regarding the economic impact of Paris Fashion Week: six billion euros in showroom sales and 4.3 billion euros at the fairs. These figures have inevitably changed, as the study then included 27 trade fairs. There are now only four: Première Classe, Tranoï, Woman, and Splash. The latter fair was organised by Alex Lyles and Claire Spencer-Churchill, specialising in resortwear and beachwear, and took place at the Pavillon Gabriel.

"We started with a sense of constraint: location changes, shorter schedules," says Sylvie Pourrat, head of the Première Classe offering. "The experience turned out to be positive and renewing. Our exhibitors returned home satisfied with the overall business climate of this September 2024 fashion week."

Chinese presence in Paris

Brands leveraging Paris Fashion Week as a showcase primarily position themselves within niche markets of luxury, high-end, or designer fashion. The Market Week, which includes fairs and showrooms, encompasses more accessible labels that still target an elite distribution: concept stores, department stores, and selective multi-brand shops.

In reality, Paris Fashion Week predominantly reflects the concerns of a wealthy class, which must be addressed by many individuals with more modest means, especially when market shares seem to shrink, as is the case with China.

After initial reports suggested a decline in luxury goods sales, pressure subsided following announcements from the Chinese government aimed at boosting consumption. According to some experts, sudden rebound effects in China appear to be possible.

During the September 2024 Fashion Week, however, the focus was less on the purchasing power of the Chinese populace and more on the fact that Chinese fashion is moving away from the Western model to elevate its own culture. Chinese brands are gaining ground in terms of occupying spaces and creative offerings.

The Sino-French Festival for Fashion and Culture, fashion shows, "China Select" at Tranoï—the list of Chinese brands that have utilised the Paris aura for their exhibitions is extensive. This season, Fashion Week also served as a springboard for the exhibition "Heritage Next," which will be on display until 23 October 2025 at La Samaritaine. It highlights elements of the country's traditional clothing culture, such as embroidery or small round buttons, through French literary references like Jules Verne or George Sand.

Media hype vs. brand value alignment

The arrival of a creative director piques media curiosity. A prime example is Alessandro Michele at Valentino, whose first show for the Italian label took place during Paris Fashion Week. Similarly, the absence of a creative director also attracts media attention. This is the case for Chanel, where the appointment of a new creative director is anticipated in the coming weeks. Rumours suggest that Simon Porte Jacquemus and Hedi Slimane, who has been succeeded by Michael Rider after six years at Celine, are in pole position.

When an artistic director is in office, it becomes more challenging to generate excitement unless they unveil a collection that captivates all. This, in itself, is an almost impossible task. Alternatively, one could stage a massive event, as seen with the young French brand Coperni, which rented Disneyland Paris to showcase its collection in front of Sleeping Beauty’s castle amid fireworks.

But does the media buzz translate into a healthy economy? Luxury goods corporations believe that creating "perceived customer value" relies on the business units, meaning that brand and operational structure are two distinct matters, says Ludovic Alban, CEO of Paris Phoenix Studio. The result: rather discouraging figures in a complex economic environment.

To bridge the dichotomy between executives who think in Excel sheets and creative departments that must entice end consumers with alluring proposals, the LVMH group used Paris Fashion Week to heighten the visibility of an initiative close to its heart: aligning creative excellence with environmental commitment. This was achieved through the creation of the Prelude collection by Kevin Germanier and the inauguration of a campus where employees and partners are trained in environmental matters.

The orientation and transparency of a production, distribution, and communication strategy undoubtedly represent the future of luxury as understood by the new consumers.

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.FR. Translation via AI and edit by Rachel Douglass.